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DigitalAssault stubby


Joined: 14 Oct 2006 Posts: 864 Location: Kitchener, Ontario
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 8:31 pm Post subject: LF: Star Wars Yoke Gear |
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Yup. That stupid little plastic gear that connects to the pot that recognizes the up/down of the yoke broke. I fixed it for a while before but it's broken and should be replaced... They have them here:
WMBerg.com, part # P24A66-14
But the gear is 20.19 USD + shipping but the minimum order is $50.00 (before shipping)...
Anyone have an alternate source or another spur gear?
Gear Specs:
No. Of Teeth 14
Bore 1/4
Outside Diameter 0.666
Material ALUMINUM ANODIZED
Type SPUR GEARS
Style PIN HUB
Pitch Diameter 0.5833
Face 1/4
Pitch 24
Pin Hub Diameter 3/4
Overall Length 1/2
Pressure Angle 20
Cheers! _________________ 20 GOTO 10 |
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illregal timbit


Joined: 23 Apr 2008 Posts: 128 Location: BELLEVILLE
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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almost looks like somting form a nitro powered r/c car...  |
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CheffoJeffo stubby


Joined: 16 May 2005 Posts: 755 Location: Toronto, Ontario
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wysiwyg stubby

Joined: 19 Sep 2005 Posts: 870 Location: Chatham ON, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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I can do better a couple of ways. The Star Wars gear thing is a sad situation since most people are so oblivious to the alternatives.
1/ The gears are a standard type manufactured by "Stock Drive" and also another one called Thomson-something, I'll have to look it up again. I used to be able to buy the gears for my toy robots out of a distributor in Sarnia. It's been a few years since I did that but it's likely still there. There are also some online dists of gear components besides Stock Drive online such as MacMaster-Carr. If I had a set of the Star Wars gears IN MY HANDS then I bet I could look up the correct Stock Drive product numbers and order them. They'll run about $10 or less each. All I need to know is the shaft diameter and the gear pitch and the pitch diameter. The pot gear is obviously for a 1/4" shaft since that is standard for pots. It could also be 6mm but common, it's an old American product so it'll be 1/4"
2/ I can also replace the pots with a tiny magnetic angle sensor chip and magnet and do away with the gears entirely. Just send me the entire CP with the yoke on it and I'll give it a try. I've been offering this alternative to people for a while but so far everyone has chosen to continue to suffer with the expensive custom-made gears and pots. Oh well, their loss not mine. I know that people want to keep things "original" but let's face facts here. In most cases, that ship has sailed long ago. Once a machine is recapped and repainted and all of that, the so-called "original" value is gone. I too love to rebuild things in the spirit of the original design but in this case I'd make an exception. The new magnetic position sensors will never wear out or make mechanical noise. It's not like anyone can see them inside the panel either. Total cost for two sensors would be about $30 or less but for Dave I'll do it for free. |
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RayB Crazy Canuck


Joined: 23 Jun 2004 Posts: 6219 Location: Toronto, ON
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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Just an observation regarding your idea Wys: The magnetic solution sounds great for reliability, but I wonder if the gears have any "tactile" role as well (ie: mechanical resistance). Like how you can compare a geared Arkanoid spinner to a free-spinning type like Tempest... it's a very different feel and would affect gameplay if the feel changed drastically. _________________ .
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wysiwyg stubby

Joined: 19 Sep 2005 Posts: 870 Location: Chatham ON, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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| RayB wrote: | | Just an observation regarding your idea Wys: The magnetic solution sounds great for reliability, but I wonder if the gears have any "tactile" role as well (ie: mechanical resistance). Like how you can compare a geared Arkanoid spinner to a free-spinning type like Tempest... it's a very different feel and would affect gameplay if the feel changed drastically. |
The gears offer practically zero resistance themselves and they drive only the pot shaft. The pot is a greased bushing having a torque of 2 oz-in at most. Since the controls are so large, I doubt that you'd notice any difference that you could feel, especially against the centering springs. |
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wysiwyg stubby

Joined: 19 Sep 2005 Posts: 870 Location: Chatham ON, CA
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wysiwyg stubby

Joined: 19 Sep 2005 Posts: 870 Location: Chatham ON, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:05 pm Post subject: Re: LF: Star Wars Yoke Gear |
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| DigitalAssault wrote: | Yup. That stupid little plastic gear that connects to the pot that recognizes the up/down of the yoke broke. I fixed it for a while before but it's broken and should be replaced... They have them here:
WMBerg.com, part # P24A66-14
But the gear is 20.19 USD + shipping but the minimum order is $50.00 (before shipping)...
Anyone have an alternate source or another spur gear?
Gear Specs:
No. Of Teeth 14
Bore 1/4
Outside Diameter 0.666
Material ALUMINUM ANODIZED
Type SPUR GEARS
Style PIN HUB
Pitch Diameter 0.5833
Face 1/4
Pitch 24
Pin Hub Diameter 3/4
Overall Length 1/2
Pressure Angle 20
Cheers! |
Um... how can the hub diameter be greater than the gear outside diameter? Huh? Huh? Come ON MAN |
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DigitalAssault stubby


Joined: 14 Oct 2006 Posts: 864 Location: Kitchener, Ontario
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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Hey WYSIWYG,
That's a fantastic offer! I would agree the resistance is indeed mostly a product of the centering springs. I only know that because I've had the yoke open and checked it out. RayB has a valid and observant point though.
WYSIWG, I'm going to drop you a PM.
Thanks for the help everyone! _________________ 20 GOTO 10 |
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DigitalAssault stubby


Joined: 14 Oct 2006 Posts: 864 Location: Kitchener, Ontario
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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Those specs are a cut and paste from the WMBERG.com site.
I got that part no. from here:
http://girasoli.org/arcade/?p=76 _________________ 20 GOTO 10 |
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wysiwyg stubby

Joined: 19 Sep 2005 Posts: 870 Location: Chatham ON, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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You would not believe how close this one is, exact except for the bore but maybe you could drill it out yourself.
On the following sheet, the part number is "A 1T 2-Y24014" and the cost is $4.50 ea or down to $3 each at 25 pieces.
https://sdp-si.com/ss/PDF/79001129.PDF
This one is plastic, no brass center, so would be easy to drill out to 1/4" bore. Cost $2 each or down to $1.25 at 25 pieces.
"A 1M 2-Y24014"
https://sdp-si.com/ss/PDF/79001130.pdf
Also, excellent choice of parts here:
http://www.wmberg.com/
I have purchased gears here also... but they don't seem to have any 14t parts.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Last edited by wysiwyg on Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:48 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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DigitalAssault stubby


Joined: 14 Oct 2006 Posts: 864 Location: Kitchener, Ontario
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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I wonder if drilling out the metal insert would separate it from the plastic gear...
Doh!
Thanks for the update on the all plastic! _________________ 20 GOTO 10 |
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wysiwyg stubby

Joined: 19 Sep 2005 Posts: 870 Location: Chatham ON, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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| DigitalAssault wrote: | I wonder if drilling out the metal insert would separate it from the plastic gear...
Doh!
Thanks for the update on the all plastic! |
I think that you could drill out the brass hub safely, especially if you lube'd it, use a low speed, and maybe drilled through several times while increasing by one bit size at a time. Even with all plastic, I'd use several bits of intermediate sizes, not just hog it all out at once. I use a set of bits that are "numbered" or "gauge" bits. You get smaller size increments with those. |
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wysiwyg stubby

Joined: 19 Sep 2005 Posts: 870 Location: Chatham ON, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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Digiass, can you supply the detailed specs for the other gear also?
I was thinking that since the game will operate just fine even if the gear ratio was slightly different, that I might be able to find a pair on sdp-si site that will do the job without having to modify them. For example, there's an 18t gear with a 1/4" bore and face (pn: A 1N 2-N24018) but the pressure angle is 14.5°, not 20°. There's another part (pn: A 1N 2-Y16016) that has 16t and 20° pressure angle and 1/4" bore but it has a 0.375" wide face (so what if the face is wider?). Anyways, my point is that if we could come up with the matching gear that would produce a close enough ratio and the same center-to-center distance, then such a new pair would work just fine. |
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DigitalAssault stubby


Joined: 14 Oct 2006 Posts: 864 Location: Kitchener, Ontario
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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Digiass? Yikes, I hope that's a compliment.
I'll have a look-see for the specs. _________________ 20 GOTO 10 |
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